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bpsteve
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Side Lever Rolling Block
Jan 29th, 2008 at 7:38pm
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Does anyone have info or a drawing to modify a Rolling Block to a side lever similar to a Hepburn?
I have the lever and know that a new block pivot pin is necessary but I'd like to have some ideas on a method of attaching the block to the pivot pin.
Steve R
AZ.
  
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John Taylor
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Re: Side Lever Rolling Block
Reply #1 - Jan 30th, 2008 at 9:22am
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This patent shows an outside slider that catches the ear of the breach block. A screw could be installed on the inside but then the trigger guard would need to come off to remove the breach block
  

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bpsteve
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Re: Side Lever Rolling Block
Reply #2 - Jan 30th, 2008 at 9:35am
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John,
Thanks for the drawing.
It's interesting how it uses an inside arm to work the block in the normal manor.
Not what I'm looking for but interesting!
Steve R
AZ.
  
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John Taylor
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Re: Side Lever Rolling Block
Reply #3 - Jan 30th, 2008 at 9:51am
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The arm is actually on the outside. It has a little sliding part (Marked F) that catches the ear of the breach block. According the printed material the slider can be moved down and the breach opened in the normal way.
You could cut a small keyway in the breach block and solder a key in place then cut a keyway in the pin to match. This way the pin could be removed without taking the trigger guard off.
I have seen pictures of side lever rollers but never understood any advantage. Some of the drawing that I have suggest that a lever could be used to cock the hammer and open the breach at the same time. Looking at the pictures does not make much since, the hammer would need to have a lot more travel to get it to work.
  

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38_Cal
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Re: Side Lever Rolling Block
Reply #4 - Jan 30th, 2008 at 10:51am
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I'm doing a Spanish Rolling Block with an extended block pin with the right, outboard, end cut square and drilled and tapped for a screw.  The lever is cut for the square extension and held to the pin by a large headed screw, like the Sharps hammers are retained.  Internally, I used a 10-32 Allen screw drilled through the block into the new pin.  The pin is made of drill rod, not heat treated.  The ear was cut off to give a symmetrical appearance to the top of the action from the rear.  I positioned the lever so that it's top is just below the top level of the receiver at the hammer when closed.

David
Montezuma, IA
  

David Kaiser
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bpsteve
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Re: Side Lever Rolling Block
Reply #5 - Jan 30th, 2008 at 11:00am
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David,
That was my intension but wondered about access to the set screw to allow the pin to be removed.
I've got a lever casting from Lone Star and will machine a new pin from drill rod then hone the receiver for pin rotation but was wondering if one set screw was sufficent and if so how to access it.
Do you have pictures of your modification?
Thanks for your input.
Steve R
AZ.
  
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J.D.Steele
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Re: Side Lever Rolling Block
Reply #6 - Jan 30th, 2008 at 12:10pm
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I did one like this a few yrs ago but didn't retain many photos, the owner wanted it back before I was finished.

I used two long headless screws, really more like pins threaded on one end, to attach the block to the hinge pin. They were positioned such that, when the  hammer was rolled back, the pins were aligned with the vertical and were perpendicular to the bore line. This was so that if a future disaster occurred and the pin threads stripped or the pins broke, then it should be possible to drive out the damaged pins and salvage as many parts as possible without tearing everything up. Blind holes could greatly complicate any necessary repairs, so I bored them all the way through. I put ~ 3 full threads on the top of one pin and the bottom of the other one so that they wouldn't get swapped and possibly buggered up by some ham-fisted future owner, and then hardened them both. The pins were placed side-by-side in a symmetrical fashion, so they looked neat, with only the pin ends showing when the  hammer was fully cocked. The screwdriver slots were on the bottom and so of course the pins had to be removed that way also, really made for a neat and clean appearance when done. I used a single long pin going completely through the hammer and its pin, centrally located and again threaded in from the bottom.

Here's a view of the lever on the rifle, sorry no attachment details.
Good luck, Joe
  

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J.D.Steele
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Re: Side Lever Rolling Block
Reply #7 - Jan 30th, 2008 at 12:16pm
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And another view showing my first and second efforts at fabbing sidelevers, I forgot which one I finally used but there's not a lotta difference. Please take careful note that this sidelever, unlike Lone Star's longer ones, will NOT break your trigger finger upon firing. Regards, Joe
  

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J.D.Steele
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Re: Side Lever Rolling Block
Reply #8 - Jan 30th, 2008 at 12:28pm
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Another view, showing the roughed-out first-effort lever in place prior to welding. Joe
  

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38_Cal
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Re: Side Lever Rolling Block
Reply #9 - Jan 30th, 2008 at 1:38pm
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Very nicely done!  Sorry, no photos, my digital camera's got a hitch in the getalong and I can't download to my computer!   Cry  I'm using a single screw from the inside bottom of the block, accessible when the triggerguard is off of the action, but since the project is not yet finished, I may alter it to your method, Joe!  With the modified Hepburn lever I'm using, I positioned it up a little bit higher than in your photo., otherwise it's the same concept. 

David
Montezuma, IA
  

David Kaiser
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j sells
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Re: Side Lever Rolling Block
Reply #10 - Jan 30th, 2008 at 4:53pm
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Like the previous post I put a key in the block. I put the block in mill vise with hole facing a 3/16 end mill. Cut a half moon slot thru the block on the edge of large pin hole. Cut and weld or solder a 3/16 pin in the slot you just cut. I make the pin a little short to leave room to weld on each end. With a new longer than normal block pin take a 3/16 ball mill and cut a slot the length of pin in relation to the previous installation in block. Line up slot with block in receiver and install like you normally would the unaltered pin.. With a square hole in your lever, position it where you want it with block closed on end of pin and mark pin. Machine the marked end to match the square hole in lever. I would machine it a little larger than hole and fit by filing to assure a tight fit. Drill and tap the center of the square in pin and install large screw to hold the lever in place. Like the hammer screw example in previous post. The newly made large pin then should be hardened after all machining, drilling and tapping is done. Lot of wind written here but doesn't take that long. JS
  

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Re: Side Lever Rolling Block
Reply #11 - Jan 31st, 2008 at 7:37am
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I went with the square hole and a set screw. I drilled and tapped through the spindle and into the block. The lever is re shaped from a Frontier armory lever.
              Steve

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bpsteve
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Re: Side Lever Rolling Block
Reply #12 - Jan 31st, 2008 at 8:32am
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Guys,
Thanks for all the great input on this subject along with pictures.
Now I have so many options I'm confused which one to use!!!
I questioned the use of threaded pins but that seems to be the most common method but I really like the large pin installed in the block with a matching groove in the new pivot pin.
I just ordered material for the new pin and will make a decision soon.
I'll follow up with pictures of the method I use.
Thanks for the help.
Steve R
AZ.
  
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tbird1960
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Re: Side Lever Rolling Block
Reply #13 - Jan 31st, 2008 at 10:08am
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Just one question. With the lever on the side what keeps the action from opening at full cock? It looks like the length of the levers added weight would cam itself open.
  

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Re: Side Lever Rolling Block
Reply #14 - Jan 31st, 2008 at 10:13am
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tbird1960 wrote on Jan 31st, 2008 at 10:08am:
Just one question. With the lever on the side what keeps the action from opening at full cock? It looks like the length of the levers added weight would cam itself open.

Most actions have a spring to keep them closed.
  

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