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Keep in mind, there is really nothing special about fume bluing; just another way to get steel to rust.
I tend to like it for doubles, because, as I stated earlier it tends to get into all the little nooks & crannies: between the barrels & the rib, into the rib matting etc. fairly evenly without runs or pooling like you would get with at wipe on.
I really don’t like using it for HW, single shot, or Winchester barrels in general (Except the M21s), as I find the color a little too black to correctly match the Early Winchester stuff.
Got a couple of issues with the technique posted:
I probably wouldn’t put in a un temp controlled garage or eve.
Something to consider is that the fuming box really needs to be kept at a constant temp, cool nights , warm days and you’ll start to get condensation on the barrels…really ruining the job.
3-4 days….way too long, I envision serious pitting. Really more than 24 hours is too much. When I lived in Alaska (Very low humidity) and did this, 24 hours was max. If you need more humidity, use a damp sponge in the bottom of the box.
Remember you control the amount of rusting with temperature and humidity.
Put it in a box with a clear lid, I use Plexiglas, but an aquarium or long Rubbermaid type plastic storage box will work. Put a window in to watch progression.
“CARD OR BRUSH IT DOWN TO THE BLUE, WITH A FAIRLY STIFF MOTOR DRIVEN WIRE WHEEL”
I completely disagree with that statement, a good stiff motor driven wire brush will burn thru the rust down to the bare metal, ruining your blue job and trashing your polish. The wire brushes I use are made for rust bluing, I think Brownells or Midway carry them, very thin wire about .002 or .003. wire thickness. The sell them in 2 or 4 rows, I like the 2 row better …much less aggressive. It won’t make much difference on round parts, but on octagon barrels or anywhere there are sharp edges, the more aggressive brush will tend to thin the blue on those edges.
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Fume bluing (Read 29381 times)
