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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) LUBE FORMULA`S (Read 83357 times)
Dale53
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #15 - Nov 28th, 2005 at 3:22pm
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The qualities of Anhydrous Lanolin used to be well known. It has such extreme "film strength" it was the favored lubricant for draw dies. Lubricity is without question. The addition of 5% to my Emmert's lube in place of an equal amount of Canola oil increases the life of the lube. Now, it doesn't dry out and fall out of the grooves on bullets carried over the winter.

It makes an excellent case forming lube on the reloading bench. It is a bit hard to remove from the case but a rag dampened with Mineral Spirits will easily remove it. It is kind of like a "Natural STP" but considerably stiffer.

Dale53
  
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Schuetzendave
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #16 - Nov 29th, 2005 at 10:39am
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The accuracy of my bullets would deline severly as the lube dried out and hardened over time. The addition of lanolin slowed the process , however it did not stop it.

I am too busy in the summer to cast and lube bullets so I need to build up my stocks in the winter.

So I starting storing my lubed bullets in the freezer.
When I use freshly lubed or frozen bullets with the Alberta Schuetzen lube they perform great without leading from -40 to 110 F without any need to change the formula.
  
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montana_charlie
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #17 - Dec 2nd, 2005 at 1:55pm
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Howdy boys,
I cannot speak with any authority on the subject of bullet lubes because (except for some Maxi-balls 30 years ago) I have never lubed a bullet in my life...but I will be, pretty soon.
That's why I have been following this thread.

With no experience, I have only a vague idea of how far a 1 ounce stick of lube will go, so I look at product that is packaged in larger sizes.  When I saw a listing for three pounds of SPG priced at $75.00 I almost choked.
You can buy REAL BUFFALO MEAT for less than that...and you don't have to elbow your way through all of the PETA protestors around Yellowstone Park who are there to mess up your hunt.

Ever vigilant for opportunities to save a buck, I read with interest a post on the Shiloh forum where Todd Birch (a Canadian) mentioned that he was about to try a boot waterproofer as a bullet lube for BPCR.  The product, Portage Beeswax Waterproofer by Tana lists it's ingredients as beeswax and lanolin.  Todd says it's of a consistency similar to SPG.

Well Tana isn't sold in the US.  But, it's a part of the Sara Lee empire, as is Kiwi.  Kiwi markets their Camp Dry Beeswax Waterproofer in (what appears to be) the same 7 ounce jar, and it sells for as little as $4.50 at Ace Hardware stores.  It also claims to be nothing more that beeswax and lanolin.

That is 64 cents an ounce compared to $4.00 / oz. for SPG.

I have not even taken possession of my Pedersoli Sharps, yet.  And, the way the Montana weather is looking, it may be some time before I actually reach the point of having ammunition to burn up...and a climate which allows it.

But, for those eternally addicted testers of bullet lubes, here is something new to try.

While searching for the American equivalent of the Tana product, I happened to discover that Sno Seal is also mostly beeswax, and that Smiling Mink Oil is primarily mink oil and beef tallow.
I happened to have an unopened tub of Smiling Mink Oil, so I looked at it with "bullet lube" in mind.  It looks like the perfect material to smear into the grooves of a Maxi-ball.  A little of it might be useful to 'soften up' Camp Dry Beeswax Waterproofer should that be a little too stiff for cold weather.

So...there you have it, boys.  Those who have their pet loads already figured out, and have the luxury of experimenting with lubes, can work this idea over.
I plan to start out with off-the-shelf stuff until I have something working well...so it may be a while before I can add anything more.
CM
  

Retired...twice. †Now, just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.
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MP
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #18 - Dec 3rd, 2005 at 1:27pm
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Iím not sure a lot of folks use it much anymore but I mixed my first batch of Alox and beeswax  (50-50)  up in the 1970ís and have been adding to it ever since.  I have about three lubes that I try on any new bullet, some bullets donít like it but the vast majority do. 
I bought my Alox back then so I have no idea if the new stuff is the same or not.
  
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Dale53
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #19 - Dec 3rd, 2005 at 1:42pm
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This is an unabashed "plug" for Charlie Dell and Wayne Schwartz's
book, the Modern Schuetzen Rifle. It is available from ASSRA direct. It will answer all of your questions about making your own lube. In fact, it covers the whole schuetzen game so well that I can't imagine being without it.

Do YOURSELF a favor and immediately order it for a long treasured Christmas gift to yourself!
Laurie Gapko, ASSRA Sec'y can be reached at:
           secretary@ASSRA.com

Dale53
  
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Voyageur
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #20 - Jan 20th, 2006 at 10:47am
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I've tried a number of different lubes over many years.  I believe the first lube I used in cast bullet rifles & pistols was made either by Ideal or Lyman.  As a matter of fact, I still have some Ideal molds that I use.

Anyway, I tried the least expensive to the most expensive and finally came up with my own home brew that seems to work whether I'm shooting straight black or duplex.

50% pure beeswax
50% peanut oil off the supermarket shelf

Now the hard part since we're speaking of different melting temperatures here.  I melt and add 2 oz. of Kirk's Original Castille soap which is made with pure cocoanut oil.

The lube seems to last forever and holds together on the hottest days.  I guess a fella just has to try it out and see if the accuracy holds up in his firearm.

If you make it up without the soap... it even tastes good. Smiley
  
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Jubilado
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #21 - Jan 20th, 2006 at 12:44pm
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So what are your ratios, that is, how much of the 50/50 beeswax/peanut oil do you add the 2 oz. of soap to?

Paul
  
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Voyageur
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #22 - Jan 20th, 2006 at 12:59pm
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Quote:
So what are your ratios, that is, how much of the 50/50 beeswax/peanut oil do you add the 2 oz. of soap to? Paul


2 oz. of the melted Castille soap to the can of 16 oz. of melted beeswax and 16 oz. of peanut oil. 

You must have the beeswax/peanut oil as hot as you can without burning it since the Castille soap melts at a higher temperature.
  
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bluesteel45
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #23 - Jan 23rd, 2006 at 11:38pm
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can't speak for smokeless, but for blackpowder this is a good one: 7 ozs. pure yellow beeswax  ; 3 ozs. lanolin ; 3 ozs. mobil one synthetic motor oil. melt in a doubleboiler and pour into lubrisizer. can also be used for panlubing. works for me....blue Wink
  
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rk4570
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #24 - Jan 24th, 2006 at 7:55pm
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Schutzenbob......You said that you got a lube formula from Kenny Fox, did you ever try his ZORRO lube? I still have several pounds of it that I bought from him at the WEST END G. C. in the early 90`s.  8)
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #25 - Mar 28th, 2006 at 11:10pm
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Voyageur--I like your formula the best because it's close to mine. Since I started addding peanut oil as a softener to my beeswax based lube I have had zero lead. Peanut oil is almost impossible to burn and leaves a film that sticks. I have been looking for coconut oil to try after reading about it's properties. I don't know what SPG lube has in it, but I suspicion it is a beeswax coconut oil mix. I have added paste floor wax with carnuba just because. Years ago 50% beeswax and crisco with a teaspoon of RCBS sizing lube added was good enough. Some of the simplest formulas are the best.
  
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SPG
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #26 - Apr 23rd, 2006 at 3:55pm
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Don H,
Thanks for the kind words...but let me correct a commonly head belief. SPG works equally well for smokeless or black...I developed it as an "all-purpose" cast bullet lube. We, in fact, sell it to all shooters of cast bullets...pistol, high velocity, CBA'ers, muzzle loaders, ect.

One of the requirements I put on it was that it needed to work in all weather for all my various cast bullet firearms as I was tired of switching from one lube to another in hot or cold temperatures. I worked on this the better part of three years and in the process learned quite a bit about bullet lube.

I'm not saying that SPG will work better than a particular lube in a particular barrel...but it has shown to work in 99% of barrels in 99% of temperatures and I think that is it's real advantage. I've used it exclusively since I developed it in "81-"83 and it has worked well for me. I got Chuck Blender to try it a few years ago and it cured a barrel that he was having trouble with (leading) at Raton, New Mexico.

The true test of any bullet lube is in a cold (less than 30 degrees) temperature with low humidity. Almost any wax or grease will work when humidity is above 50% and temperatures don't exceed about 80 degrees. Cold, dry weather is what will test a lube...as well as black powder fouling.

For those who like to experiment with different ingredients I will offer some cautions that I explored when developing SPG. Using tallow or other animal fats that haven't been purged of salt can be bad medicine for barrels...especially old , pitted barrels. Likewise with beeswax that has not been purged of honey and sugars. Also...the Vaseline that one buys today as well as Crisco is not what it was even just 20 years ago. Oils and fats that are used in food preparation generally have not been purged of salt.

Another answer to a question that I have been asked frequently...yes, I have been using SPG on my rimfire ammo, especially my old Federal stuff. Their rosin-based lube seems to have dried out and here in Wyoming with the low humidity I have noticed much less leading when I use a film of SPG on the bullets.

Another tip...I don't recommned using a micro-wave to melt lube. Use only a double-boiler and if by some chance you have applied direct heat to a lube or scorch it...throw it out. I can guarantee it will not work after over-heating.

I have one funny Charlie Dell story concerning lubes. Years ago Charlie called me up (before we had ever met) and said that he was putting together an archive of bullet lube formulas. He politely requested the formula for SPG and I responded with "Charlie...I'd be glad to tell you what is in it...but then I'd just have to kill you." Charlie got a big kick out of that and we were friends from that point on. I considered Charlie to be a real authority on bullet lubes and everything else "single shot"...and I really miss his good conversation.

Gut Ziel,

Steve
  
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brayhaven
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #27 - Apr 29th, 2006 at 8:31am
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For those of you here, who apparently like to experiment, I'd suggest you try soy wax beads in place of beeswax in your testing.  It has high lubricity, low smoke & ash (residue) and is very easy to work with.  It has a lower melting point (than beeswax) so you might need more.  I use it in my ML lubes (mule milk & mule butter) and it works great.  Also pretty cheap.  Just getting into the cast bullet thing so haven't had time to try it in this application yet.  I also like Jojoba oil as an additive. 
Greg
  
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QuestionableMaynard8130
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Re: horse linement lube base
Reply #28 - May 30th, 2006 at 9:44pm
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JimB suggested I post this here from the other thread

"I talked to a couple of guys at EG about lubes. †I told them I'd post the info on a lube base that I found at our local farm store in the animal husbandry supply section while searching for a cheap local source of lanolin.

It is Corona "lanolin-rich antiseptic ointment for horses, cattle, small animals, and pets". † it is over 50% purel lanolin and most of the rest is emulsified beeswax with assorted fragrances and a small amount of anteseptics and medications. † †I checked it out a few years back when the old "shootersTalk" web site was running. †One of the lube gurus on the cast bullet forum was a PhD in soap chemistry for one of the big mfgs. †He checked out the product and its ingredients and said it was an almost perfect BP bullet lube. †I have been using it for a couple of years with added beeswax melted into it. †by itself it has a vasaline type consistancy and I wanted it a bit stiffer."

as an added comment †I ouwld note that I was told that the Non-lanolin, non-beeswax ingredients would not have any negative effect and that some might actually help. †It has worked for me----but I have not won any matches either.
Wayne Stiles
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #29 - May 31st, 2006 at 6:23am
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How much beeswax did you add to the Corona to make it stiff enough?
And did you pan-lube , dip lube or use it in a sizer?
Inquiring mind are curious Cheesy
Slick4k
  

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