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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) LUBE FORMULA`S (Read 83363 times)
Jim_Borton
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LUBE FORMULA`S
Nov 21st, 2005 at 2:18pm
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I`m starting this thread for the posting of "Lube Formula`s"
I`m going to nail it to the top and everyone just post there "FAVORITE"
COME ON GUYS IF U KNOW THE FORMULA PUT IT DOWN!
Beewax 4oz
castor 4oz
lanolin 4oz
synthetic spermaceti 4oz
lead stearate 1oz
soap powder 1oz (ivory flakes)
« Last Edit: Nov 21st, 2005 at 10:25pm by Jim_Borton »  

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fallingblock
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #1 - Nov 21st, 2005 at 5:47pm
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All I use is 50/50 Bee's Wax and Bear Grease seems to work with Black and Smokeless powders.
Laurie
  

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mes
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #2 - Nov 21st, 2005 at 6:12pm
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My latest I call Red Bear

1 lb beeswax
1/2 lb lanolin
1/2 lb Bear Fat
8 oz Lube Gard
  

Martin Stenback
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #3 - Nov 21st, 2005 at 7:27pm
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SPG for BP. for the smokeless loads mix of 50% beeswax, 40% Crisco and 10% Canola oil.
Bob
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #4 - Nov 21st, 2005 at 10:08pm
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I use Charlie Dell's 36MA:

Beeswax
Synthetic spermaceti
600w worm gear oil
Lithium stearate
Anhydrous lanolin

Equal parts by weight, except 1/2 part lanolin
  

Willis Gregory, aka singleshot
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #5 - Nov 21st, 2005 at 10:53pm
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I have had good luck with my Frog Guano lube.  The exact proportions have changed a bit from batch to batch, but the basic recipe is;

     40% Beeswax (unrefined)
     10% Carnauba Wax
     40% Anhydrous Lanolin
     10% Mink Oil

I then add a couple of small blocks of green candle dye (which is itself in a Paraffin carrier) to get the desired color.  The mink oil started as a joke because of a comment in one of Charlie Dell's lube articles comparing lube to a fur coat on the bullet...and what better fur coat than MINK?  (Oh well, I guess you had to be there!)  I use the stuff they sell in little plastic jars for boot dressing...I don't know what else is in it, but it works.

     I apply this lube with one of Charlie's Pope style lube pumps and try to keep a couple of sticks poured and wrapped in foil in my shooting box.  I have also used it with a Lyman Lubri-sizer to good effect.  This lube has worked rather well for me with smokeless powder, especially the IMR 4759 and H-108 I shoot the most.  It is OK with BP (as I would have expected) except in the very hottest and dryest conditions, during which I am now starting to use Dale53's formula for Emmert's.

     All the usual disclaimers apply, YMMV, prices slightly higher in the South and West, don't eat yellow snow, etc.  Roll Eyes

Froggie
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #6 - Nov 22nd, 2005 at 12:41pm
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HI
1lb. beewax
1/2 lb crisco
1/2 cup or thereabouts of Marvel Mystery Oil
RWJshooter
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #7 - Nov 22nd, 2005 at 3:19pm
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I use Emmert's home mix with a slight change:
50% pure beeswax, 40% Crisco (the original solid shortning that looks like lard), 5% Canola Oil, and 5% Anhydrous Lanolin all by melted volume.

This is a very effective black powder lube and a very effective schuetzen smokeless lube.

High velocity smokeless loads I use NRA Alox/Beeswax mix (non schuetzen use).
  
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Schutzenbob
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #8 - Nov 23rd, 2005 at 1:24am
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My favorite lube for black powder is bee's wax and white lithum grease. You heat the lithum and then add the bee's wax until you reach the consistancy you want. It has a very high melting point,  Sad unfortunatly you can't pan lube with it, you have to use it in a pump. I got this formula from Ray Day and Kenny Fox many years ago.

Bob
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #9 - Nov 23rd, 2005 at 8:03am
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For years I used Javalina Schuetzen Lube (the old Smiley's Formula) but the first batch that I recieved after Alox changed hands was different, Not as good.
I swiched to Charlie Dells #59 C I have had good luck with it in both the pan and the pump.

40 Rod
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #10 - Nov 23rd, 2005 at 8:19am
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Emmerts and Darr back east. Had leading problems with one rifle in the 100 degree dry heat of the southwest. Am using Javalina Schuetzen and it cured the problem. SPG for black.

Dick
  
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PETE
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #11 - Nov 23rd, 2005 at 4:08pm
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Steve,

  Here's the formula for Charlies 59C lube as taken from his book.

Beeswax  35%
Paracin 9  20%
Ivory Snow 05%
Castor Oil  10%
Anhydrous Lanolin   20%
Lead Stearate  10%

The formula for 36MA is slightly different than #36 and #36M in that Synaceti 125 has been exchanged for the Spermaceti and the Lanolin has been increased from 1/2 part to 1 part.

Lithium Stearate  1 part
600 W Worm Gear Oil  1 part
Beeswax  1 part
Synaceti 125  1 part
Anyhydrous Lanolin  1 part

  There are some specific instructions as to how to put both of these lubes together. Not particularly complicated but they both appear to have to be done in a specific order. No mention in the assembly instructions says whether it can be used for BP. I would suspect not. If you want to try these I can post the instructions, or better yet,you should really get the books. Vol. 1 goes into a lot of detail on lubes. Probably more than you want to know.  Grin IT has some work on BP in Vol. II which Charlie was kind enuf to say I contributed to.

PETE
« Last Edit: Nov 23rd, 2005 at 4:16pm by »  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #12 - Nov 25th, 2005 at 11:25pm
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While this lube is very simple and easy to mix it has worked well for me for over 35 years of shooting cast bullets with smokeless powder. Bullets lubed and stored for over twenty years were the same as the day they were lubed and when shot performed the same as freshly lubed bullets. This is the orginal "Darr #2 Lube Formula". I used this lube at velocities to 2000fs for gas check bullets when shooting handgun sillywets, having shot many 40's in unlimited class. No leading was observed when shooting plain base bullets up to 1650fs.

Equal parts by melted volume of paraffin wax (canning wax) and Vaseline petroleum jelly, add 1 tablespoon STP per each pound of mix. This is a good lube for both pan lubing and for use in lube pumps.
  

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Schuetzendave
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #13 - Nov 28th, 2005 at 12:52pm
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For those recipes using Ivory Snow flakes as an emulsifier try replacing with the new Ivory Snow liquid concentrate.

It eliminates the hassle of trying to get the flakes to melt and stay in suspension. It also allows you to remelt the lube for pan lubing without worrying the soap will settle out of suspension.

Another ingredient to consider adding to your favourite recipe is metal conditioner which works its way into the metal pores and reduces chances of lead adhering to the bore.

The best mix of oils and waxes is dependent on the shooting condtions encountered. Of course the harder and stickier mixes are best for temperatures over 100 degrees F.

Need a stickier wax.
Try toilet bowl sealing wax.

Need a softer lube then increase your Crisco lard or Canola oil.

Need harder lube then increase the amount of bees wax.

Why are people adding lanolin to their lubes?
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #14 - Nov 28th, 2005 at 1:08pm
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Schuetzendave, I don't know about others, but I started using anhydrous lanolin instead of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) at Charlie Dell's suggestion.  It is an animal product and soft so it serves the function of softening while being compatible with the beeswax I use.  I addition, it is about as sticky as anything I have found, so I think it binds the lube to the bullet well.

Now my question, what about Carnauba Wax?  I know why I am using it, but how about some of the rest of you?  Why do you use it and in what proportions??

Froggie
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #15 - Nov 28th, 2005 at 3:22pm
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The qualities of Anhydrous Lanolin used to be well known. It has such extreme "film strength" it was the favored lubricant for draw dies. Lubricity is without question. The addition of 5% to my Emmert's lube in place of an equal amount of Canola oil increases the life of the lube. Now, it doesn't dry out and fall out of the grooves on bullets carried over the winter.

It makes an excellent case forming lube on the reloading bench. It is a bit hard to remove from the case but a rag dampened with Mineral Spirits will easily remove it. It is kind of like a "Natural STP" but considerably stiffer.

Dale53
  
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Schuetzendave
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #16 - Nov 29th, 2005 at 10:39am
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The accuracy of my bullets would deline severly as the lube dried out and hardened over time. The addition of lanolin slowed the process , however it did not stop it.

I am too busy in the summer to cast and lube bullets so I need to build up my stocks in the winter.

So I starting storing my lubed bullets in the freezer.
When I use freshly lubed or frozen bullets with the Alberta Schuetzen lube they perform great without leading from -40 to 110 F without any need to change the formula.
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #17 - Dec 2nd, 2005 at 1:55pm
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Howdy boys,
I cannot speak with any authority on the subject of bullet lubes because (except for some Maxi-balls 30 years ago) I have never lubed a bullet in my life...but I will be, pretty soon.
That's why I have been following this thread.

With no experience, I have only a vague idea of how far a 1 ounce stick of lube will go, so I look at product that is packaged in larger sizes.  When I saw a listing for three pounds of SPG priced at $75.00 I almost choked.
You can buy REAL BUFFALO MEAT for less than that...and you don't have to elbow your way through all of the PETA protestors around Yellowstone Park who are there to mess up your hunt.

Ever vigilant for opportunities to save a buck, I read with interest a post on the Shiloh forum where Todd Birch (a Canadian) mentioned that he was about to try a boot waterproofer as a bullet lube for BPCR.  The product, Portage Beeswax Waterproofer by Tana lists it's ingredients as beeswax and lanolin.  Todd says it's of a consistency similar to SPG.

Well Tana isn't sold in the US.  But, it's a part of the Sara Lee empire, as is Kiwi.  Kiwi markets their Camp Dry Beeswax Waterproofer in (what appears to be) the same 7 ounce jar, and it sells for as little as $4.50 at Ace Hardware stores.  It also claims to be nothing more that beeswax and lanolin.

That is 64 cents an ounce compared to $4.00 / oz. for SPG.

I have not even taken possession of my Pedersoli Sharps, yet.  And, the way the Montana weather is looking, it may be some time before I actually reach the point of having ammunition to burn up...and a climate which allows it.

But, for those eternally addicted testers of bullet lubes, here is something new to try.

While searching for the American equivalent of the Tana product, I happened to discover that Sno Seal is also mostly beeswax, and that Smiling Mink Oil is primarily mink oil and beef tallow.
I happened to have an unopened tub of Smiling Mink Oil, so I looked at it with "bullet lube" in mind.  It looks like the perfect material to smear into the grooves of a Maxi-ball.  A little of it might be useful to 'soften up' Camp Dry Beeswax Waterproofer should that be a little too stiff for cold weather.

So...there you have it, boys.  Those who have their pet loads already figured out, and have the luxury of experimenting with lubes, can work this idea over.
I plan to start out with off-the-shelf stuff until I have something working well...so it may be a while before I can add anything more.
CM
  

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MP
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #18 - Dec 3rd, 2005 at 1:27pm
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I’m not sure a lot of folks use it much anymore but I mixed my first batch of Alox and beeswax  (50-50)  up in the 1970’s and have been adding to it ever since.  I have about three lubes that I try on any new bullet, some bullets don’t like it but the vast majority do. 
I bought my Alox back then so I have no idea if the new stuff is the same or not.
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #19 - Dec 3rd, 2005 at 1:42pm
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This is an unabashed "plug" for Charlie Dell and Wayne Schwartz's
book, the Modern Schuetzen Rifle. It is available from ASSRA direct. It will answer all of your questions about making your own lube. In fact, it covers the whole schuetzen game so well that I can't imagine being without it.

Do YOURSELF a favor and immediately order it for a long treasured Christmas gift to yourself!
Laurie Gapko, ASSRA Sec'y can be reached at:
           secretary@ASSRA.com

Dale53
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #20 - Jan 20th, 2006 at 10:47am
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I've tried a number of different lubes over many years.  I believe the first lube I used in cast bullet rifles & pistols was made either by Ideal or Lyman.  As a matter of fact, I still have some Ideal molds that I use.

Anyway, I tried the least expensive to the most expensive and finally came up with my own home brew that seems to work whether I'm shooting straight black or duplex.

50% pure beeswax
50% peanut oil off the supermarket shelf

Now the hard part since we're speaking of different melting temperatures here.  I melt and add 2 oz. of Kirk's Original Castille soap which is made with pure cocoanut oil.

The lube seems to last forever and holds together on the hottest days.  I guess a fella just has to try it out and see if the accuracy holds up in his firearm.

If you make it up without the soap... it even tastes good. Smiley
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #21 - Jan 20th, 2006 at 12:44pm
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So what are your ratios, that is, how much of the 50/50 beeswax/peanut oil do you add the 2 oz. of soap to?

Paul
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #22 - Jan 20th, 2006 at 12:59pm
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Quote:
So what are your ratios, that is, how much of the 50/50 beeswax/peanut oil do you add the 2 oz. of soap to? Paul


2 oz. of the melted Castille soap to the can of 16 oz. of melted beeswax and 16 oz. of peanut oil. 

You must have the beeswax/peanut oil as hot as you can without burning it since the Castille soap melts at a higher temperature.
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #23 - Jan 23rd, 2006 at 11:38pm
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can't speak for smokeless, but for blackpowder this is a good one: 7 ozs. pure yellow beeswax  ; 3 ozs. lanolin ; 3 ozs. mobil one synthetic motor oil. melt in a doubleboiler and pour into lubrisizer. can also be used for panlubing. works for me....blue Wink
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #24 - Jan 24th, 2006 at 7:55pm
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Schutzenbob......You said that you got a lube formula from Kenny Fox, did you ever try his ZORRO lube? I still have several pounds of it that I bought from him at the WEST END G. C. in the early 90`s.  8)
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #25 - Mar 28th, 2006 at 11:10pm
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Voyageur--I like your formula the best because it's close to mine. Since I started addding peanut oil as a softener to my beeswax based lube I have had zero lead. Peanut oil is almost impossible to burn and leaves a film that sticks. I have been looking for coconut oil to try after reading about it's properties. I don't know what SPG lube has in it, but I suspicion it is a beeswax coconut oil mix. I have added paste floor wax with carnuba just because. Years ago 50% beeswax and crisco with a teaspoon of RCBS sizing lube added was good enough. Some of the simplest formulas are the best.
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #26 - Apr 23rd, 2006 at 3:55pm
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Don H,
Thanks for the kind words...but let me correct a commonly head belief. SPG works equally well for smokeless or black...I developed it as an "all-purpose" cast bullet lube. We, in fact, sell it to all shooters of cast bullets...pistol, high velocity, CBA'ers, muzzle loaders, ect.

One of the requirements I put on it was that it needed to work in all weather for all my various cast bullet firearms as I was tired of switching from one lube to another in hot or cold temperatures. I worked on this the better part of three years and in the process learned quite a bit about bullet lube.

I'm not saying that SPG will work better than a particular lube in a particular barrel...but it has shown to work in 99% of barrels in 99% of temperatures and I think that is it's real advantage. I've used it exclusively since I developed it in "81-"83 and it has worked well for me. I got Chuck Blender to try it a few years ago and it cured a barrel that he was having trouble with (leading) at Raton, New Mexico.

The true test of any bullet lube is in a cold (less than 30 degrees) temperature with low humidity. Almost any wax or grease will work when humidity is above 50% and temperatures don't exceed about 80 degrees. Cold, dry weather is what will test a lube...as well as black powder fouling.

For those who like to experiment with different ingredients I will offer some cautions that I explored when developing SPG. Using tallow or other animal fats that haven't been purged of salt can be bad medicine for barrels...especially old , pitted barrels. Likewise with beeswax that has not been purged of honey and sugars. Also...the Vaseline that one buys today as well as Crisco is not what it was even just 20 years ago. Oils and fats that are used in food preparation generally have not been purged of salt.

Another answer to a question that I have been asked frequently...yes, I have been using SPG on my rimfire ammo, especially my old Federal stuff. Their rosin-based lube seems to have dried out and here in Wyoming with the low humidity I have noticed much less leading when I use a film of SPG on the bullets.

Another tip...I don't recommned using a micro-wave to melt lube. Use only a double-boiler and if by some chance you have applied direct heat to a lube or scorch it...throw it out. I can guarantee it will not work after over-heating.

I have one funny Charlie Dell story concerning lubes. Years ago Charlie called me up (before we had ever met) and said that he was putting together an archive of bullet lube formulas. He politely requested the formula for SPG and I responded with "Charlie...I'd be glad to tell you what is in it...but then I'd just have to kill you." Charlie got a big kick out of that and we were friends from that point on. I considered Charlie to be a real authority on bullet lubes and everything else "single shot"...and I really miss his good conversation.

Gut Ziel,

Steve
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #27 - Apr 29th, 2006 at 8:31am
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For those of you here, who apparently like to experiment, I'd suggest you try soy wax beads in place of beeswax in your testing.  It has high lubricity, low smoke & ash (residue) and is very easy to work with.  It has a lower melting point (than beeswax) so you might need more.  I use it in my ML lubes (mule milk & mule butter) and it works great.  Also pretty cheap.  Just getting into the cast bullet thing so haven't had time to try it in this application yet.  I also like Jojoba oil as an additive. 
Greg
  
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Re: horse linement lube base
Reply #28 - May 30th, 2006 at 9:44pm
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JimB suggested I post this here from the other thread

"I talked to a couple of guys at EG about lubes.  I told them I'd post the info on a lube base that I found at our local farm store in the animal husbandry supply section while searching for a cheap local source of lanolin.

It is Corona "lanolin-rich antiseptic ointment for horses, cattle, small animals, and pets".   it is over 50% purel lanolin and most of the rest is emulsified beeswax with assorted fragrances and a small amount of anteseptics and medications.    I checked it out a few years back when the old "shootersTalk" web site was running.  One of the lube gurus on the cast bullet forum was a PhD in soap chemistry for one of the big mfgs.  He checked out the product and its ingredients and said it was an almost perfect BP bullet lube.  I have been using it for a couple of years with added beeswax melted into it.  by itself it has a vasaline type consistancy and I wanted it a bit stiffer."

as an added comment  I ouwld note that I was told that the Non-lanolin, non-beeswax ingredients would not have any negative effect and that some might actually help.  It has worked for me----but I have not won any matches either.
Wayne Stiles
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #29 - May 31st, 2006 at 6:23am
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How much beeswax did you add to the Corona to make it stiff enough?
And did you pan-lube , dip lube or use it in a sizer?
Inquiring mind are curious Cheesy
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #30 - Jun 2nd, 2006 at 8:20am
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slik.  I'm pretty unscientific.  I added enough until it looked right (?) I also dropped in some of the red sealing wax from the top of a well-known bourbon bottle thoug it took a long time for the red wax to completely melt into the mix.  On my 45-70 bullets (457676 lyman Matthews tapered bullet) I have just panlubed.  I have a B&D bullet they made for me that is the same bullet but scaled down for my 38-55.  I pan lube for it.
I also have a different batch of the same lube that has has had a small amount of moly grease(sacrelidge I know--but sacred cows make the best burger) added that I have used on the 38-55 bullet in both pan-lubing and in a pope/dell/simmons lube pump.  The lube pump has a bushing cut especially for the specific bullet. It is still a little stiff for use in the lube pump a and before the next EG match I'll probably add some more Corona to it to soften it up a bit.
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #31 - Jun 2nd, 2006 at 9:25pm
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Are you using this lube over black powder or that smokeless stuff on your cast bullets?
Thanks,
Slick4k
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #32 - Jun 2nd, 2006 at 10:53pm
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I have used it with both, but mostly I shoot smokeless in schuetzen now.  I used it some with BP a couple of years ago  when I was first getting re-started in singleshot.  I'll probably do it again latet this summer of the BP leg of the All-American match
Made it up with the Corona and less beeswax than Im using now so it was softer and a bit stickier.  It gave me a good lube star on the muzzle and a decent bore I was using a blow tube but here on the downwind side of Lake Michigan humidities tend to run high
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA"S
Reply #33 - Jun 3rd, 2006 at 7:57am
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Here's a recipe I've used.  Got it out of one of Paul Matthews books.
   8 oz. beeswax, 8 oz. pure neats foot oil, and 2 oz of Lube Gard, available at NAPA auto parts store. Works great as a pan lube and over black powder.
Slick4k
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #34 - Jun 6th, 2006 at 7:01pm
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I have tried various versions of many of the above mentioned formulas. Nothing like that shaved soap foaming as you try to melt it! It's got to be REAL dry. Some one mentioned concentrated liquid, I might try it.
One thing I have tried and seemed to work well in the Emmerts type lube is virgin olive oil instead of canola. It seems to be e little "thinner" but gave the finish product a little more slippery feel. I shot some of my best groups with it.
I really prefer just to buy SPG, it has not failed me. But as much muzzle stuffing and smith carbine shooting as I do at the N-SSA it gets expensive. ( No Offensive Steve! )Those .58's hold a lot of lube and lube is super imortant when you are not wiping for 20 or 30 shots. We shoot against the clock, and the clock is part of the score.
The emmerts is nice because you adjust beeswax content for time of year. The Feb. formula is a real mess in August and the August formula is too hard in Feb.
Anyway, The beeswax, crisco, and olive oil has worked in my BP cartridge guns. I did mixed one with a little lanolin on top and seemed ok but never really kept track of it, just used it for plinking. Jon
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #35 - Jun 30th, 2006 at 2:18am
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one pound bee's wax, one pound Alox, one half pound lanolin, Two ounces dark green oliveoil.    Olive oil Makes this lube tacky, or gooy.  It sticks to your bullets and the inside of your barrel. Lanolin spreads out in long sheets.  I dont have leading troubles with this lube, its the best i've ever used.     Joe.
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #36 - Nov 10th, 2006 at 9:09pm
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... and now for the Grand Daddy of All Lube Lists!  Here is a VOLUMNOUS Listing of historical and current lubes, collected and assembled from a long list of BP shooters.  No White Powder lubes on the list.  So, grab a cold drink, a comfortable chair and Enjoy the List:
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While reading this thread, noticed that no one is using Jojoba Oil.  It has been chemically tested to have superior qualities than whale oil - the old time favorite ingredient
  

Regards
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #37 - Nov 16th, 2006 at 4:48am
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After Charlie Dell built my 32-357 about 10 years ago (i'm from Oz) he sent me some samples of his lube, after using up the 36M and 59C, i experimented with a variation of 59C as I could not obtain stearate in small quantities in Australia. I use the lube for black powder and smokeless with good results.
30% Beeswax 20% Spermacetti wax 30% lanalon and 20% castor oil (by weight)
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #38 - Jan 27th, 2007 at 4:15pm
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To day I have being shooting my Rollingblock on the 300 mtr range.
Group : 300 mm - 17 shots.
My lube ? Molycote longtherm W2 ! nothing more and nothing less I wipe the bore between shots , works super !
Summer and winter from -30 Celcius up to 110 Celcius always steady Smiley
It contains lithiumsoap I guess that's the trick
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #39 - Mar 20th, 2007 at 4:46pm
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I will be doing some pan lubing for the first time in about 25 years. What I used back then was the parafin, vaseline and RCBS case lube. It worked OK except it tended to fall off the bullets if you werent real careful, I never did use it very much so I cannot really recommend or condemn it.  At any rate, I will be starting to shoot a tapered bullet so I guess I am going to have to go back to pan lubing.  I have had good luck with Alox in all my cast bullets, Schuetzen and gascheck, and was thinking about the Alox beeswax formula. The Dell book states it might not work well after being melted, I noticed some people in this thread mentioned the alox pan lube, has anyone had any problems with it in smokeless loads? Thanks! Joe S
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #40 - Mar 20th, 2007 at 9:15pm
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Your Vaseline/paraffin/STP lube is too HARD. Soften with more wax. I'm still shooting a batch of this lube I made up 40 years ago. Too much is made of bullet lubes, any waxie material will work at velocities under 1500fs with smokeless powder. Beleive me I've tried alot of lubes and stuff that was never intended to be bullet lube like all types of furniture paste wax, don't ever use automotive wax though, you will screw your barrel up for a while.  Some lubes stay soft longer in the barrel, this is dependent on barrel temp. this is important. If your breechseating bullets, seat the bullet before the barrel cools from previous shot, if fouling is left to harden, stripping (not leading) is more likely to occur. Actually, very little lube is required, lots of shooters (most of them) winning ASSRA matches are using 3 groovers. None of them are using the same lube, so it ain't the lube that getz-ya 250's. It is important that all the grease grooves are full though, regardless of the Babypoop/frogtallow  Shockedlube your using. (Froggie, I've never actually tried frog tallow, have heard of those less fauna sensitive than myself have Cry. No frogs were ever harmed during my tests.) My advise put more grease on your wind vanes not on your bullets! Cool
Hey! Why don't you get creative and make up a batch of mysterioum then you can put your name on it, its a very popular thing to do. Grin
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #41 - Oct 18th, 2008 at 7:44pm
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waterman
You might try these guys, they sell two different grades of Jojoba oil.
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #42 - Jan 1st, 2009 at 3:41pm
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guys I have used these two for years and they both work well
cheers for the new year
irish
p.s. hope this loads!!!!
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #43 - Jan 2nd, 2009 at 7:16am
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well it is winter GREEN....
oil of wintergreen is a preservative, and helps keep the crissco from souring, and like you said it smells good so one will not have a mad wife around when in the kitchen lubing.
and that is a little important Smiley
Its also one of those things that some one who had been doing this a lot longer than i have told me do it this way and it works so thats what i do.
happy new year
irish
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #44 - Jan 3rd, 2009 at 7:31pm
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westerner wrote on Jan 3rd, 2009 at 9:53am:
I added a product called Sil Glide to a batch of lube once. When I shot the rifle it looked like long strings of cobwebs hanging out of the muzzle. It was a Silicone based product.  It didnt work at all and I had to throw that batch of lube away.   Grin

                                         Joe Smiley


  I used Javelina Alox Beeswax bullet lube made by Schuetzen shooter Jess Smiley in San Bernardino,CA.  I melted it  into an aluminum jello  mold pan & dropped my hot cast 405gr linotype bullets into,worked great for my Rem rolling Block 45-70.
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #45 - May 13th, 2009 at 4:57pm
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Been using the 50/50 bees wax & olive oil lube for a year now with much success. Pan lube works out great. Keeps the fouling down.
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S - Barlow's Bullet Lube
Reply #46 - Sep 18th, 2009 at 10:32pm
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This is out of my Grandfather's Notebook (Alfred Louis Stebbins).  It is a recipe from Harry M. Pope.  

Barlow's Bullet Lubricant (Recommended by H.M. Pope)

Mutton Tallow 6 oz (Chop, warm and strain through a tea strainer)
Bee's Wax 2 oz
Bay (Berry) Wax 4 oz
Steam Cylinder Oil 2 oz
Acheson Electric Graphite #2301, 2 heaping tablespoons full (about 170 grains)

Melt all together slowly.  Pour about 1/2 inch deep in a pan while stirring to keep graphite from settling and allow to cool.

Break up in to pieces after cooled and hardened and and put into lube pump.

Graphite made by Acheson Graphite Co., Niagara Falls, NY.

I have no idea where one might get steam cylinder oil today or mutton tallow unless you know a sheep farmer.  I am sure powdered graphite can be found.

Gary
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S - Barlow's Bullet Lube
Reply #47 - Sep 18th, 2009 at 11:50pm
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stebbinsgr wrote on Sep 18th, 2009 at 10:32pm:
<snip>
I have no idea where one might get steam cylinder oil today

Where else but (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links) .  I kid you not.
Quote:
or mutton tallow unless you know a sheep farmer.  

Sheep farmers aren't too hard to find.  Finding one even in suburbanized Connecticut wasn't hard.  For a few dollars I got a lifetime supply.  Go around Easter when they are, ah, "processing" lots of lambs.  Ask for fat from around the kidneys, which is supposed to be best.  I ran mine through a meat grinder and then simmered the result in water to extract the tallowy goodness.
Quote:
I am sure powdered graphite can be found.
Gary

Powdered graphite is easy to find, but it's usually of indifferent quality.  I believe that Pope's recipe called for "finest" grade Acheson graphite, what would today probably be called colloidal graphite.  The finest grade powdered graphite I can find is here (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links) , but you better be sitting down before you read further...Okay, I warned you... it's $450 for a pound;  smaller amounts are much more per lb.  Acheson makes a product called Oildag, an oil mixed with colloidal graphite, which I believe Pope approved as a substitute.  But if you use Oildag, I would think that it might be best to skip the steam cylinder oil, or the lube might be too soft.
Doug
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #48 - Sep 19th, 2009 at 10:57am
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Try replacing the steam cylinder oil with the IXL anti-friction metal conditioner (it is an oil) which is used to increase the lubricity of other oils.
Or pick up some Alberta Schuetzen lube which has other undisclosed additives.
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #49 - Oct 22nd, 2009 at 7:52pm
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What I have been using for the past several years, in all kinds of weather, and has proven to have excellent shelf life is as follows:

8 oz. Beeswax, 1/3 cup Crisco (original solid ), and 1 cake of Neutrogena Original Formula soap.

Melt the beeswax and then stir in Crisco.  Shave soap into mix and stir to dissolve any lumps.  Decant into glass containers (pint canning jars) and allow to harden.  Easy to remelt in microwave and good for pan lubing, or pour into lube sizer or lube pump.

The Crisco can be adjusted to meet specific needs.  Can be remelted indefinitely. 

Just my .02 centavos
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #50 - Oct 22nd, 2009 at 8:05pm
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I tried Green Velvet steam cylinder oil #3 in my lube. Everytime I pulled the trigger the rifle went pshooukpoofpssue and steam came out the muzzle.
I had to stop using it.

                                        Joe.
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #51 - Nov 19th, 2009 at 5:50pm
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The lube I have gotten to use is:
1/3 Bees wax
1/3 Murphy's oil soap
1/3 Neets Foot oil

I like how it controls and keeps soft black powder fouling. The Murphy's saponifies the oil--makes soap. I adjust the bees wax a bit for weather-- hot vs cold. Smells like a baseball glove.
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #52 - Nov 4th, 2010 at 10:21pm
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Iwas reading in the pages before of why use lanolin?I've used for sizing brass,very lightly or you will krinkle.I would try it on lead and experiment till  I see results.I read that petroleum products are used.If there working use them.I've got access to both pure mink oil.Emu extract,Pure lanolin,rendered bear lard.I am bound to stumble on something.What ever works. Iwill share my ideas.They all make good water repellancy on metal,leather,wood polish.Cant beat nature.I can direct you to the suppliers.You dont want nothing with acid or salt in it.Email me if you want.  fwierus@excel.net    Frank Smiley Wink
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #53 - Nov 8th, 2010 at 7:43pm
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Sunday Nov 7th,I and some friends up in Crivitz,Wi.,shot the 44-100.Put a 100 rds. thru it.Varied loads from 105 grains of fffg,down to 85 grains 0f 2fg.all the loads were a compressed charge.We chronied at 1535fpm,down to 1425fpm.A 545gr and 525gr was used.SPG lube was used and 50wax,25%bears lard,25%lanolin were used.Slightly dry with the homade stuff.200yds,20mph crosswind,we held  5 in groups on an ASSRA target.Cleaned out the bore just with wads,checked out the bore,no leading.I run a patch every time I shot the waxed bullet.A bad buildup of wax.It looks like it needs more lard.Does any  one have any suggestions?    Frank    Sad Sad Undecided Undecided
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #54 - Nov 10th, 2010 at 8:36am
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One of the advantages of using lanolin is that your lube will not dry out. Many lubes will dry out and crack, but adding just a tablespoon or two per pound will keep the lube supple for well over a year.
  Has anyone tried just dumping a bottle of mould prep in the mix in stead of the hard to find colloidal graphite? All mould prep is is graphite suspended in a thinner. I would think that just dumping it in the mix and boiling off the thinner would work.

40 Rod
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #55 - Nov 10th, 2010 at 9:00am
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Quote:
I am bound to stumble on something.What ever works.

Frank, may want to try meadow foam oil instead of anhydrous lanolin.  Both have nearly the same hydrogen-carbon chains but meadow foam has a few more hydrogen chains.  Plus, if you can find mutton tallow, not the slurry stuff but the tallow that is an ivory white color processed from the fat around the kidneys of sheep, use it.  Mutton tallow will produce a near moist foul when the Relative Humidity is less than 40% but not nearly as moist when the RH is greater than 40%

Bayberry wax and micro crystaline wax are also good ingredients in a lube concoction
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #56 - Nov 10th, 2010 at 8:45pm
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This is getting interesting.The MinkOil co added lanolin to there product,and other natural additives.I sized my 45-100 brass and it is slick.Now if that works between brass and tool steel,it should work between lead and the bore.One thing,the bear lard works on skin allergies such as exema and machine coolant redness.Ive done this just to see what was done in the old days shooting muzzloaders.I've got 24lbs of that bears lard in the refridge.Good for cooking and baking.I'm sticking with SPG,for now.Need some lard let me know.This is the best topic.   Frank  Wink Wink
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #57 - Nov 10th, 2010 at 9:20pm
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My lube formula, 50% paraffin or bees wax (whichever I can get) 40% alox, 10% mink oil from a kiwi can (as it has an unknown amount of Lanolin in it)
  

I'm for any sport that burns powder, I just look down a different set of barrels than most folks.  __Elmer Keith
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #58 - Dec 3rd, 2010 at 11:17pm
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I got a weird one for you.  1 part beeswax, 1 part alox, and 1 part Corona horse ointment.  Hasn"t failed me yet in any condition.
  

I'm for any sport that burns powder, I just look down a different set of barrels than most folks.  __Elmer Keith
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #59 - Jul 9th, 2011 at 11:46pm
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I like Mr Rabbeths old recipie or a vervsion of it, 1 part cylinder oil and 4 parts bees wax, and I add just enough cosmoline to make it tacky. sticks to the slugs real good and will not run in hot weather. Steam cylinder oil is availibe from a couple of places. Here is whee I get mine.
Mike

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #60 - Dec 8th, 2011 at 1:38pm
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Hello, Years ago, I used to purchase Synthetic Spermaceti wax from Charlie Dell,  Is this stuff still available?  The last time I checked, had to buy 50# drum.
   Over the holiday, I was experimenting mixing various lubes..wanted to find one without the spermaceti..in case I couldn't find more.
  Came up with a nice soft-smooth textured lube..probably good for B.P., grease cookie...or anti skin-cracking cream!
200 pts. pure beeswax
100 pts. castor oil
50 pts. anhydrous lanolin
    Haven't tried it yet.
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #61 - Dec 8th, 2011 at 1:49pm
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In the 90's when I shot slug guns, the guys that got me into it, wouldn't turn loose of there sperm oil (other than about 2 oz that I got with the gun I bought) and told me to use automatic transmission oil.

The reason was that original auto trans oil was sperm oil so, you can say that it is a synthetic sperm oil. It seemed to work in that application.

Frank
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #62 - Dec 9th, 2011 at 2:10am
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I think that the big deal with the steam cylinder oil is it's durability rating under high pressure. This may sound strange, but here goes. From an engineering standpoint on oils, oils are flammable and do burn, some can explode given the right conditions. Steam cylinder oil is like rock drill oil, a rock drill is fed oil to lubricate the percussion drill steel to keep it from galling and ruining the drill. This oil has to have a very high detonation level or it will detonate with severe consequences, I know been there done that. We ran out of rock drill oil over seas and my boss said hell try any oil we can't stop working. We ruined 5 drills before he gave up and got us an emergency shipment in. A rock drill running at night with the bad oil is easy to spot as it sounds like a single cylinder engine on steroids and shoots flames out the exhaust port. If you use an oil like steam cylinder oil or rock drill oil it is rated at a very high detonation/pressure level before it goes bang on you. Some of the problems that we encounter with fouling I think is caused by using lube formulas that do not use a high detonation oil as a base ingredient. I may be wrong here but I think not. A large amount of the old formulas used the steam oil for that very reason. A lot of the old timers never cleaned there rifle until they got home after shooting all day, they did not need to as they were using a superior oil/lube mixture.
Mike
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #63 - Jan 10th, 2012 at 5:25pm
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Being some what new to shooting cast bullets in old single shot rifles I'm still trying to learn about bullet lube. Last year I made my own for the first time. It was equal parts of bees wax, Crisco, and paraffin wax with a few table spoons of bear oil. It seems to work OK. I don't get any leading, and cleaning the barrel is a matter of a few wet patches with bore solvent, and dry patches. I check the bore with a bore scope adn can find no leading.
   There is so much information in this section about bullet lube that it is rather confusing to me. So I need to be reminded if there is something that I missing here. Bullet lube is used to prevent bullet lead from galling to the bore, and help keep powder fouling soft and easy to remove. What am I missing here?
   I shoot smokeless powder (IMR4227) in a 32-40 Stevens 44. My load is running 1128 fps. I have on hand raw bees wax, bear lard, bear oil, Crisco, and paraffin wax. I'm planning to try a lube of 1 part bees wax 1 part bear lard, and some bear oil.
   Would like to hear what you with experience would think of this lube formula.
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #64 - Jan 10th, 2012 at 6:03pm
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There is a little more to lube than just to keep a bullet from leading and powder fouling isn't much of (if any) factor with smokeless but, a big factor in BP.

Lubes shouldn't be as slippery as possible (these are my own opinions) but, should exert some resistance to dampen pressure variations in the bullet travel down the barrel.

When I've tested lubes (and I did a lot of it years ago) I used Darr lube as my standard to measure others against (ok but, not the best with BP). Darr lube is one of the ALL time best lubes for plain base, BSed bullets. It's only limiting factor is temperature. Somewhere above 80/85 degrees it will lead! In those conditions, I kept my bullets in a small ice chest until ready to shoot and that worked ok. After starting back shooting, I've switched to Smilley lube for a all around lube.

My point here is, test your lubes against Darr Lube and if it's as good or better accuracy wise, it's good to go.

The formula for Darr is simple and cheap....... 50/50 Paraffin and Vaseline with 1 - 2 table spoons of STP or a tube of the old RCBS case lube (what I've always used). I've had guys tell me that they don't use the STP or case lube and it does just fine. Darr lube will shoot 248's and 5 shot groups of 7/8" at 200 and it's cheap!

I'm not advocating Darr as the best possible lube but, it is a lube that you have to exceed the accuracy of to KNOW that you have a excellent lube.

Frank
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #65 - Jan 10th, 2012 at 7:46pm
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Frank,
  Thanks! Like I stated before lube is more than a little confusing. What lube do you like for fixed ammo? What do you think of the equal parts of Bees wax and bear lard, with a few spoonfuls of bear oil?
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #66 - Jan 10th, 2012 at 8:26pm
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The Javelina 75% Alox and 25% Bee's Wax is one that deserves a try, it Smiley's old formula and the business has just been purchased by a close friend and competitor. If you have an interest in purchasing some let me know and I will pass it onto him. Once he gets his business license and other related items in order he will be advertising his products as well as his contact information. Until then I don't mind helping him out and actually I enjoy doing so.

J.Louis
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #67 - Jan 10th, 2012 at 8:57pm
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I think anything is worth a try. You will never know w/o trying. My point was to try it against a know lube and if it's as accurate or better, you have yourself a winner. The Darr lube cost very little to make and it can have lots of other uses if it's not needed (I use it to lube a band saw blade among other things) but, unless you have a standard to gauge your lube  against you can't know how it works.

Frank
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #68 - Jan 11th, 2012 at 8:53am
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Hi Frank, Thanks for the reply, and again for the advice. I do understand your point about trying and making a comparison. However I'm so new to the game I have really only my first batch of lube to use as a bench mark. It seems to work well. I don't get any lead in the barrel and the bore cleans up rather quickly. You have pointed out that some lubes will prove to help the rifle shoot more accurate. That got me to thinking about my experience shooting rim-fire bench-rest. I have seen how lube plays a role with accuracy in that game. Starting with a clean barrel in my rim-fire bench-rest rifle I have to shoot several rounds before the rifle settles down and starts to perform. The barrel is a fine Krieger and I'm shooting Eley ammo. So it's not some old worn and pitted bore that had to get a bunch of fouling before it starts to look like it may shoot accurately. Here is what I believe is happening in the bore. Even with a bore that has been cleaned and dry patched out there is a residual amount of oil or bore cleaner left, and the absents of powder/primer and lube fouling. Once that first shot goes down the bore the fouling starts to be distributed the length of the bore. It may take several shots to bring the fouling full length of the bore for a consistent surface resistance for a bullet to run on. Once that has been achieved the rifle will shoot more consistent. In this mix of bore fouling there is a residual amount of bullet lube that is mixed in the primer/powder fouling. The viscosity of the fouling is established by the lube and the temperature it is held at while shooting. Let the rifle set for a short while in cool weather and return to shooting with the barrel previously fouled and shooting accurately and I find that the first few shot are not where they should be.
   I would tend to believe that the same would hold true for shooting smokeless and cast lubed bullets in center fire rifles. Would like to hear your thoughts on this.
   Thanks, Sendaro
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #69 - Jan 11th, 2012 at 8:55am
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Hi J Louis,
   Thanks for the reply and the suggestions. I will take it into consideration. Sendaro
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #70 - Jan 12th, 2012 at 5:54pm
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Sometimes we just don't know when an opportunity was knocking. One of the last of the old Schuetzen rifle men was A fairly well known chap by the name of Harvey Donaldson. He was well on in years when I was introduced to him at the Pine Tree Rifle Club of Johnstown New York. At that time Harvey was playing with some cartridges that Remington had legitimized (22-250 and the 25-06). Being an wood chuck hunter I was interested in fast flat shooting modern cartridges and the talks I had with Harvey were around those matters and not the fine points of his by gone days shooting cast bullets in single shot rifles. I wish that he was alive today to share his knowledge. About that same time I was working part time in a sporting goods store in Johnstown. Some items came into the shop that were from a close friend of Harvey's. Mixed into the box of odds and ends was a small booklet about 4"X4". It had sheets of tissue paper separating sheets of a substance that looked like wax,grease, and graphite. A customer in the store was also looking through the box with me and told me that Harvey advocated the use of grease and graphite wads in all his cartridges. I'd be willing to bet that this practice was something that Harvey carried over with him from his earlier days with cast bullets.
   Anyone adding a little of graphite to the lube?
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #71 - Jan 12th, 2012 at 6:06pm
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"Lubes shouldn't be as slippery as possible"
That is what I found when I played with adding Moly to my lubes. Made it too slippery. The bullet slid down the barrel faster; before pressures built up, and I ended up losing 100 fps in my velocities.
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #72 - Jan 12th, 2012 at 6:06pm
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Several years ago I came across a photo that I found very interesting. One of the men in that photo is E. O. Leopold from the great State of PA. As I understand it E. O. Leopold made and sold a bullet lube that was very popular back in the 1890s through the early 1900s. Anyone know anything about this? I just love the photo. It was taken in May of 1911 at Shushan NY when four of the most noted riflemen of the time were out on a woodchuck hunt. How times have changed! Sendaro
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #73 - Jan 12th, 2012 at 6:18pm
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The other thing that I found in my lube testing, was that the slipperier lubes have higher extreme spreads.

I have no way to prove it but, I believe the pressure fluctuates while the gases are expanding and the lube helps to dampen it out.

Frank
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #74 - Jan 12th, 2012 at 6:34pm
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"Once that has been achieved the rifle will shoot more consistent. In this mix of bore fouling there is a residual amount of bullet lube that is mixed in the primer/powder fouling. The viscosity of the fouling is established by the lube and the temperature it is held at while shooting. Let the rifle set for a short while in cool weather and return to shooting with the barrel previously fouled and shooting accurately and I find that the first few shot are not where they should be.
   I would tend to believe that the same would hold true for shooting smokeless and cast lubed bullets in center fire rifles. Would like to hear your thoughts on this."

Yes, I believe this is true but, with center fire there is more heat and it comes back quicker. I've found that just two shots will usually bring it back to the prior condition. But, these things can do unexpected things, too  Shocked

BTW, great photo Smiley

Frank

  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #75 - Jan 13th, 2012 at 12:24am
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Gentleman keep in mind the lube does more than just prevent leading of which several out there will do. You need to find the one that will provide you with 1/2 minute of angle at 200yds. A simple change of lubes can take a 3 inch group and shrink to less than 1 1/2 inch with everything else remaining the same so you do indeed need to try several.

J.Louis
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #76 - Jan 18th, 2013 at 9:49pm
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Hey guys, is there a substitute for Lead Stearate, hoping to making some 59C lube.
another question, would Ivory snow dishsoap work?
thanks
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #77 - Jan 18th, 2013 at 10:42pm
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Van it would easier to just buy it from Willis Gregory. Lead Stearate is dang near impossible to find and Ivory dish soap will not work, it needs to be Ivory Beads and or Ivory Flakes both again hard to come buy. It can be had from industrial cleaning suppliers but in very large quantities only from my understanding.

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #78 - Jan 19th, 2013 at 9:33am
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John and all
When I was making Charlies Dell's lube I got some materials from him to make the formula. He gave me a couple of pounds of the soap he was using. He told me that Ivory had changed the formula and added something, I think it was to make it smell better. Any way Charlie stopped using Ivory and looked around he finally found a commercial product that was just soap. The downside was he had to buy it by the barrel.
Ivory beads may still work but one of Charlie's things was to as much as possible use only basic ingredients.
40 Rod
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #79 - Jan 19th, 2013 at 1:01pm
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40-Rod Charlie did the same for me and so did Willis so I am good to go for a lifetime. The first batch came with the Ivory flakes and the second came with what looks like the beads.

J.Louis
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #80 - Jan 19th, 2013 at 8:26pm
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Lead Stearate Pb(C17H35COO)2 and Dibasic Lead Stearate, 2PbO, Pb(C17H35COO)2 are basic lead soap of commercial stearic acid....
so does that mean steartic acid is a substitute?
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #81 - Jan 19th, 2013 at 8:48pm
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Van

I don't think so.  Lead stearate is made from lead oxide and stearic acid.  It isn't difficult to make but there is no way to be sure the results aren't 'off'.  There are some lubes that use  lithium stearates, Dell 36A for example.  I looked long and hard for lead stearates and it is impossible to find anymore outside of Asia. 

A bit of caution is required in handling lead based lubes but nothing we don't already do when casting.

If you want to try some I have some Dell 59.  I'm glad to lube some bullets if you wish.   Send me a pm.

Dave
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #82 - May 7th, 2013 at 10:06pm
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I searched quite a while to make my own list, but it does no good if only I look at it.  Here is a list of black powder lubes for those of us who like to experiment

US Army 1855 - 1 part beeswax, 3 parts tallow

US Army 1861 - 8 parts beeswax, 1 part tallow

US Army 1873 - 8 parts bayberry wax, 1 part graphite

US Army 1880 - Japan wax

Sharps Rifle Co. 1878 - 1 part beeswax, 2 parts sperm oil.

Maynard Rifle  1890 - 1 part beeswax, 3 parts tallow

Marlin Firearms Co. 1891 - 1 part beeswax, 4 parts tallow

S&W 1891 -  tallow

H.M. Pope 1900 - 3 parts mutton tallow, 2 parts bay wax, 1 part beeswax, 1 part steam cylinder oil, .2 of 1 part Acheson graphite. (The bay wax can be omitted)

(5) parts Bee's Wax
(4) parts Lard/Crisco
(1) part Canola/Olive oil


Buck Emmert's Lube Formula (for black powder)
1750 grains Beeswax
1368 grains Crisco Shortening (White)
328 grains Crisco or Wesson Vegetable Oil

1 pound Bees Wax
1 pound Citronella Candle
2 Tablespoons shortening

50% beeswax,
40% white Crisco
10% canola cooking oil.
6 cups unmelted soy wax.
˝ cup Jojoba oil.
˝ cup mutton tallow, or you can use beef tallow
1/3 cup unsalted lard.
1/3 cup liquid Bayberry wax.
You can thicken this out by adding soy or using less to thin it or add more lard to make it softer.  If it gets too hot add Palm Vegetable wax or use block Bayberry wax instead of liquid Bayberry wax.
Palm wax melts at about 160*

50% beeswax,
40% Crisco,
5% Canola Oil,
5% Lanolin

6 oz of beef tallow
4 oz bayberry wax
2 oz beeswax
2 oz synthetic sperm oil
1 heaping teaspoon of Moly

6 oz of beeswax
3 oz of bayberry wax
6 oz of bacon grease
1 tablespoon of Dawn soap
2 tablespoon of neatsfoot oil

40% beeswax
30% conola oil
30% lanolin

70% Soywax
20% Avocado oil
10% lanolin

One part clean beeswax
Three parts deer tallow
One canola oil
Powdered graphite

Modern Sharps Formula
1 part Beeswax
1 part Jojoba oil

1 pound beeswax
1 pound white Crisco
1 pound Mutton Tallow
5 oz. Bag
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #83 - May 7th, 2013 at 10:11pm
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I ran out of room there Shocked

I have used Pope's lube  - a friend of mine used to make it and that produced the tightest groups and the easiest clean ups I have ever had with my Sharps 45-70

H.M. Pope 1900 - 3 parts mutton tallow, 2 parts bay wax, 1 part beeswax, 1 part steam cylinder oil, .2 of 1 part Acheson graphite. He omitted the graphite, and never would tell me what he used for cylinder oil - He was a machinist and I assume he had access something that was similar to it.

  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #84 - Sep 3rd, 2013 at 12:44am
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Well...I use a product called "Junior Lube". It's made by an old Louisiana redneck named Junior Doughty. Do a search for him and/or his lube and you can find out what it's made of. I am fairly new to BPCR and newer to reloading. So I am likely only APPROXIMATELY correct when it comes to my powder measuring, bullet casting, brass reforming etc etc. But I use his lube and I get very acceptable groups at 50 yds, have not shot at 100 yds but plan to do so this week yet. He has a great write-up at his website about his NEF 45-70 handi-rifle which is what I shoot also, maybe that's why I like his recipe(?)  Cool
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #85 - Mar 5th, 2014 at 6:34pm
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Is anyone using just alox for smokeless loads?

                                Sendaro
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #86 - Mar 5th, 2014 at 9:51pm
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Yes, I do.
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #87 - Mar 6th, 2014 at 12:20am
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Alox is all I use for smokeless loads.
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #88 - Mar 6th, 2014 at 6:51am
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As it is with all things there are pros, and cons, and I'll bet Alox is not exempt from the rule. Would like to hear what they are about the use of Alox. I just started using it and so far I like it.

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #89 - Mar 6th, 2014 at 9:00am
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Javelina Schuetzen Lube, Alox & Bee's Wax is one of the best lubes out there Sendaro. It is richer in Alox than the NRA 50/50 and the better lube.

JLouis
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #90 - Mar 6th, 2014 at 10:02am
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Hi John,

A few weeks back I bought a one pound stick of alox from Paul Shuttleworth. I gave it a try and liked the results. Even while pan lubing it worked better than what I was using before. The bullets pushed out of the lube cake easy and there was no excess of lube on the bullet to be wiped off. The bullets lube with the alox seemed to even breech seat with less effort. These are my first observation and I do not proclaim them to be conclusive, however I like what I have experinced with it so far.

Would you recommend that I add bees wax to the alox I have? If so, why?

Weather here is still around zero in the AM, and there is still much snow and ice. It's comfortable in our shooting house, but a real trip to post target on snow shoes!

                                     Sendaro


                                 

  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #91 - Mar 6th, 2014 at 11:29am
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Sendaro it sounds like Paul gave you a one Pound stick of Javelina are you sure it is just pure Alox?

JLouis
« Last Edit: Mar 6th, 2014 at 1:15pm by J Louis »  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #92 - Mar 6th, 2014 at 12:26pm
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Sendaro,

PM sent.

Jerry_H
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #93 - Mar 6th, 2014 at 4:28pm
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John,

   Paul called it alox. It is a carmel color and has a very unique smell to it. I actually like the smell. I have another 1 pound stick on the way from Paul and I will ask him.

                                    thanks, Sendaro


  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #94 - Mar 6th, 2014 at 5:18pm
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I thought that I read on the CPA web site that Paul makes his own lube using 1/3 Alox, 1/3 Gulf wax, and 1/3 Vaseline.

RB
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #95 - Mar 7th, 2014 at 1:43am
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mine is 50/50 with beeswax; old NRA formula.  Just started using it last year.  Need to shoot it more to wring it out Grin
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #96 - Jun 1st, 2014 at 7:36pm
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Schuetzendave wrote on Nov 28th, 2005 at 12:52pm:
For those recipes using Ivory Snow flakes as an emulsifier try replacing with the new Ivory Snow liquid concentrate.

It eliminates the hassle of trying to get the flakes to melt and stay in suspension. It also allows you to remelt the lube for pan lubing without worrying the soap will settle out of suspension.

Another ingredient to consider adding to your favourite recipe is metal conditioner which works its way into the metal pores and reduces chances of lead adhering to the bore.

The best mix of oils and waxes is dependent on the shooting condtions encountered. Of course the harder and stickier mixes are best for temperatures over 100 degrees F.

Need a stickier wax.
Try toilet bowl sealing wax.

Need a softer lube then increase your Crisco lard or Canola oil.

Need harder lube then increase the amount of bees wax.

Why are people adding lanolin to their lubes?

  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #97 - Jun 3rd, 2014 at 3:52am
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"Why are people adding lanolin to their lubes?"

Because Mil Farrow, Ned Roberts or one of those guys said it is good to add a little  Grin
  

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Re NECO (TAURAK)
Reply #98 - Jul 11th, 2016 at 3:35am
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.
« Last Edit: Jul 11th, 2016 at 4:21am by westerner »  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #99 - Jul 11th, 2016 at 9:31pm
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Joe,

Where did you find that stick?  Is it Alox or something equally smelly?

Dave
  
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Re: NECO (TAURAK)
Reply #100 - Jul 11th, 2016 at 9:45pm
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It's NECO (TAURAK) just like the label says. Hi Dave!

Have had it for a long time. Used to use it before it got used up. Wished I could find more. Have about a half pound block also. Must be worth thousands of dollars, you think? Posted the pictures in case someone wanted to know what a tube looks like. It really is excellent lube. Steve says it's crap.  Grin

          Joe.

       
         
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #101 - Jul 11th, 2016 at 10:16pm
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Joe
Taurak is/was good stuff. I used it in the 80s as a lube wad for black powder and Pyrodex (CTG) loads with paper patched bullets and could get off 12-15 accurate shots with NO wiping between shots. It was originally made by TEXACO for a railroad application, I don't know what. They quit manufacturing it some years ago.
It worked great in my original Sharps heavy sporting rifle in 45-2 7/8 with a slightly tapered slug (slick) that, patched, was a coupl'a thou under bore diameter. It also worked just as well in a Shiloh action (first year of production, high half-cock) that I re-barreled in 45-2 7/8 and re-stocked back in the early 80s.
Too bad TAURAK it is no longer available.
After shooting 12-15 shots, I cleaned with a wet patch and fouling came out like a slimy black loogie. Next wet patch was gray, and third was clean. I loved TAURAK. Thought it was the best lube ever for paper patched bullets. I mourned its passing.
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #102 - Jul 11th, 2016 at 10:47pm
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Randy it was used as a lube for the rail car bearing boxes. Sold as surplus and bought by Neco and has since been long gone other than by chance.

JLouis
  
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frnkeore
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #103 - Oct 27th, 2016 at 4:27pm
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I found this, over on the CBA site. It was put together by Ralph Schneider and Steve Hurst.

It seems to be a excellent, compulation of bullet lubes, with many formula's, for them, including many that we use.

Frank
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #104 - Nov 30th, 2016 at 3:55pm
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From the Lyman 47th Reloading Handbook, Third Printing: April 1994, page 109:

" Lyman Ideal bullet lubricant is a blend of sheep tallow, beeswax and lampblack. "
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #105 - Nov 30th, 2016 at 4:33pm
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Do believe it would make a fine lube for 22 bullets.
  

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John
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #106 - Mar 29th, 2017 at 11:12am
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Beeswax, mink oil and a bit of Murphy's oil soap.
  

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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #107 - May 29th, 2017 at 10:20pm
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Hi all,
recently I witnessed a new Pedersoli Gibbs M/L being shot for the first time.
A relatively inexperienced shooter who had never owned a BP Rifle before.

I watched him load and shoot off 20 bullets using straight BP, all of which hit the target in nice groups as he adjusted the sights to the 10 ring.

When he eventually stopped, I showed my extreme envy as to how well it shot straight out of the box. Without cleaning it once. !!

He said he didn't know you were supposed to clean it.

The lube he was using came with the rifle. Pedersoli BP Lube. A dark blue lube.
I have never seen it here in Australia before, and can't find it.  Cry

Does anyone know of it in the States. Probably expensive.
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #108 - Jul 6th, 2017 at 7:50pm
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Dusty,

I found a lube made by Pedersoli called "Lubriblack" that's available from Gun City in New Zealand. I couldn't find it anywhere in the U.S. Maybe someone knows where to find it here.

Thanks, Rats
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #109 - Jul 6th, 2017 at 7:57pm
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Dusty Rhodes,
Remember, that guy with the m/l rifle was (effectively) wiping/cleaning his bore after every shot......as he was reloading.
beltfed/arnie
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #110 - Aug 19th, 2017 at 1:35pm
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This may be a silly question for you experienced shooters, but are the amounts in the formulas by weight or volume? I'm not sure if it makes a difference if the ingredients are all about the same weight per volume. I'm new to the bpcr game and would rather be safe than sorry. Thanks for the info, this is a great website!
  
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Re: LUBE FORMULA`S
Reply #111 - Aug 20th, 2017 at 4:49pm
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I weigh everything even the liquid.  Thanks, ratseye
  
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