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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) Brass Molds. (Read 7662 times)
DWT1885
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Brass Molds.
Mar 15th, 2015 at 11:25am
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To the guys that are using brass molds, do you like them better than the iron type ? Thanks, Dale.
  

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Nailman
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Re: Brass Molds.
Reply #1 - Mar 15th, 2015 at 11:46am
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Nothing wrong with a Brass Mold.....
  
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mike in Va.
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Re: Brass Molds.
Reply #2 - Mar 15th, 2015 at 12:15pm
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I have a couple of brass molds made by a fellow named Bevridge.  One is a tapered 33 cal the other for a 44 cal Sharps.  I've used both for over thirty years with good results.  Same for my iron/steel molds.  I can't tell much difference.
  
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shovel80
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Re: Brass Molds.
Reply #3 - Mar 15th, 2015 at 12:53pm
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I like them both!

Terry
  

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Bent_Ramrod
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Re: Brass Molds.
Reply #4 - Mar 15th, 2015 at 6:00pm
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They hold heat like iron and resist rust like aluminum.  The interior finish tends to be less prone to tool marks than cavities in iron moulds.

The only downside I see is that some makers use a lot of brass to make their moulds out of, so they tend to be bigger and heavier than they need to be.
  
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MikeT
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Re: Brass Molds.
Reply #5 - Mar 15th, 2015 at 6:52pm
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I have a couple of Accurate Moulds brass bullet moulds.
They are heavy, but the bullets are just beautiful.
The best thing to do is get a CabineTree locking handle so the grip-handle is smaller to hold.  I always set the mould down to let it cool so I do not have to hold it continuously.

Keep on hav'n fun
MikeT
  
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marlinguy
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Ballards may be weaker,
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Re: Brass Molds.
Reply #6 - Mar 15th, 2015 at 7:34pm
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I have an old Ideal that someone relined with brass and cut to the same caliber again. It's a .32-40 mold, and casts a nice bullet. Bought it years ago, just because I thought it was nicely done, but cast thousands of bullets with it since then.
  

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Chuckster
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Re: Brass Molds.
Reply #7 - Mar 15th, 2015 at 11:36pm
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Marlin,  Can you tell how the brass insert is attached? Have tried to silver solder the insert but is about as much work as making new blocks.
Chuck
  
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JS47
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Re: Brass Molds.
Reply #8 - Mar 16th, 2015 at 12:52am
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[quote author=7357555B6A3E0 link=1426433143/5#5 date=1426459944]I have a couple of Accurate Moulds brass bullet moulds.
They are heavy, but the bullets are just beautiful.
The best thing to do is get a CabineTree locking handle so the grip-handle is smaller to hold.  I always set the mould down to let it cool so I do not have to hold it continuously

I have 3 single cavity brass moulds from Accurate and they all cast beautiful bullets.  I think being heavy is what makes them cast consistent bullets once they are up to temp and running well.  I set the mould on a block of wood next to the pot while the sprue is cooling.  Takes some of the weight off my forearm.

JS

  

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MartiniBelgian
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Re: Brass Molds.
Reply #9 - Mar 16th, 2015 at 6:22am
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Small blocks can also cast pretty well - one of my best-casting moulds has small blocks, and it casts very well.  It is for a PP bullet, though, so that will help too...
But I do prefer brass moulds to iron, they xon't rust and tend to be better at bullet-releasing
  
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marlinguy
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Ballards may be weaker,
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Re: Brass Molds.
Reply #10 - Mar 16th, 2015 at 10:13am
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Chuckster wrote on Mar 15th, 2015 at 11:36pm:
Marlin,  Can you tell how the brass insert is attached? Have tried to silver solder the insert but is about as much work as making new blocks.
Chuck


I can't see any sign of how they're attached. It's such a tight fit between the blocks and the brass insert that I can't see any sign of silver solder or adhesives? I have wondered how they were held also, and figured it must be soldered, as heat would make most adhesives eventually let go.
  

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DWT1885
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Re: Brass Molds.
Reply #11 - Mar 16th, 2015 at 11:39am
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Thanks guys. Think I will try one from Accurate. Dale.
  

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graduated peep
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Re: Brass Molds.
Reply #12 - Mar 16th, 2015 at 11:55am
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marlinguy wrote on Mar 16th, 2015 at 10:13am:
Chuckster wrote on Mar 15th, 2015 at 11:36pm:
Marlin,  Can you tell how the brass insert is attached? Have tried to silver solder the insert but is about as much work as making new blocks.
Chuck


I can't see any sign of how they're attached. It's such a tight fit between the blocks and the brass insert that I can't see any sign of silver solder or adhesives? I have wondered how they were held also, and figured it must be soldered, as heat would make most adhesives eventually let go.


I've wondered too, how did the old timers line those iron molds to re-cut them.
I doubt even silver solder would hold for long, considering the temps used for casting.
My thinking was that the iron had cavities machined out, then filled back in with  a closely fitting brass slug that was brazed in.
Brazing requires temps close to 1000 degrees, so it is far in excess of lead melting points.
Either that, or they are entirely composed of brazing material.
But I doubt you could achieve absolute purity and solidarity with that much brazing.
  

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frnkeore
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Re: Brass Molds.
Reply #13 - Mar 16th, 2015 at 12:42pm
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The brass relines that I know about are dovetailed into the mold blocks, like those made by Schoyen. I have one that was done that way, also. It's a Winchester mold and the dovetailed brass is tight into the mold halfs but, there is a short set screw added from the outside to aid in holding, also.

An advatage to that is that you can make a bullet, longer than the orignal block.

Frank
  

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Schutzenbob
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Re: Brass Molds.
Reply #14 - Mar 16th, 2015 at 12:47pm
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This is a pic of one of the best, highest quality, molds I've ever owned. I believe in was made in Los Angeles about 1940 by Fielding B. Hall. Each chamber has a brass liner;
« Last Edit: Mar 16th, 2015 at 8:51pm by Schutzenbob »  
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