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KFW
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Bullet mold tune up
May 18th, 2019 at 1:28pm
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2 of my favorite 45-40 cal. Brooks Creedmore molds cause me endless grief trying to get the sprue plate properly tensioned. The molds do not have a wave washer under the screw, just a flat washer. The plate seems to be too tight or loose depending on the operating temperature. I hate to break my casting rhythm to make adjustments to the plate so it is reasonably firm on top of the blocks. Ideas? Is there a high temp. wave or spring washer that would work......maybe something like Lyman has tried?
thanks
kw
  
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Jeff_Schultz
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Re: Bullet mold tune up
Reply #1 - May 18th, 2019 at 2:27pm
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Fritz
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Re: Bullet mold tune up
Reply #2 - May 18th, 2019 at 2:47pm
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Thanks Jeff for info on spring washers.
I have been looking for some for a couple
of my molds also.
             Fritz
  
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JLouis
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Re: Bullet mold tune up
Reply #3 - May 18th, 2019 at 6:31pm
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I take mine off why do you feel a sprue plate should be snug?
  
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KFW
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Re: Bullet mold tune up
Reply #4 - May 18th, 2019 at 7:13pm
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JLoius
"I take mine off why do you feel a sprue plate should be snug? "

you lost me here!....a loose sprue plate can raise from the lead pour forming a bullet base that is not 90 degrees to bullet centerline. you take yours off and then what,nip the sprue like a old sharps mold?
  
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JLouis
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Re: Bullet mold tune up
Reply #5 - May 19th, 2019 at 10:49am
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I take off the spring washers. When you hold the mould up to a light you want to see the sprue plate laying competly flat across the top surface of the blocks. A spring washer or the screw being to snug will lift the opposite side of the sprue plate off the block of which the light will show. If to loose it will lift up under the screw which the light will also show. In either instance the base in high probability will not then be flat. It is also not untypical for the sprue plate itself not to be flat. If not it should be lapped on a piece of flat glass and I use 200 wet-dry left dry until it becomes flate. When all is said and done the sprue plate will also end up swinging freely. If the bases then don't come out flat stone a slight bevel at about forty five degrees along the top edge of each side of the blocks to let the trapped air escape and all is well. When I say slight if not it will leave a fin of lead from bleeding down the V channel created on the base. Lapping also sharpens the cutting edge of the sprue and will cut the base flush to the top of the blocks. It is also not untypical for the top of the blocks not to be flat across the top and if not I will lap them too or just stone them until flat if very minor. You also need to insure the alignment pins are properly set prior too and you can check this by feeling for any movement when moving the blocks while being held closed by hand in opposite directions.

  
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OLD TUCK
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Re: Bullet mold tune up
Reply #6 - May 19th, 2019 at 12:05pm
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KFW, One thing I have been doing for a long time is. Using a #2 Lead Pencil
Lay the lead point flat and lead up the top surface of the Mold and the underside of the sprue plate. This will give you light coating of Graphite
and let the whole system work neater. Have to redo it every once in a while.
HTH Regards, FITZ. OLD TUCK Smiley
  
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KFW
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Re: Bullet mold tune up
Reply #7 - May 19th, 2019 at 1:11pm
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Jlouis
now i understand what you are saying. the magnum oversize blocks have a lot of plate swinging out from the pivot. I do have day light under the plate when plate tension is increased a touch to keep it from flopping around. I can appreciate the Hoch style double plate that keeps everything in alignment. I have thought about replacing the plate stop screw pin with a "headed" screw that would capture the plate edge and hold it down flush. Just not sure how to back out the threaded stop, it looks to be installed with some type of hi-temp thread locker. I have already stoned everything flat and sharpened the sprue countersink hole.
best
kw
  
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calledflyer
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Re: Bullet mold tune up
Reply #8 - May 19th, 2019 at 3:31pm
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Fitz tells of a good, and cheap, way to lube the top of the blocks and the face of the sprue plate. In addition, I also "write" the facing surfaces of the mold block- it helps to keep the possibility of lead specks from sticking in there. My ol' mentor showed me this almost four decades back, and I still use the carpenter's pencil he donated to the beginner to get started. A little goes a long way if you want it to.
  

happily ignored by J. "Sonny" Louis
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KFW
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Re: Bullet mold tune up
Reply #9 - May 19th, 2019 at 4:08pm
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Got it!
went out and put 2 carpenter pencils next to the lead pot for the next casting session.
thanks
kw
  
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JLouis
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Re: Bullet mold tune up
Reply #10 - May 19th, 2019 at 4:55pm
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KFW LBT makes the below spring clamp to hold down the sprue plate and I think it might be helpful for needs. It just requires a hole to be drilled in the sprue stop pin and then pressed in. The spring can also be bent to add or decrease tension. I don't currently have one installed on a mould but I think you will see how it works.

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KFW
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Re: Bullet mold tune up
Reply #11 - May 20th, 2019 at 8:35am
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Jlouis
that lever spring is ingenious! zooming upon the picture, it seems to me a modified roll pin..........hmmmm back to the shop!
thanks
kw
  
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KFW
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Re: Bullet mold tune up
Reply #12 - Jun 6th, 2019 at 10:33am
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Jlouis:
got out yesterday and bought some spring roll pins to fab the spring hold down. i just drilled the hex hole in screw stop a little deeper and pressed one in. a little dremel work has it looking like the picture you provided. it think it will work great.
thanks for the idea.
  
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JLouis
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Re: Bullet mold tune up
Reply #13 - Jun 7th, 2019 at 8:38am
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You are welcome KFW.
  
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John Boy
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Re: Bullet mold tune up
Reply #14 - Jun 7th, 2019 at 2:19pm
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KFW - on the subject of sprue plate looseness ...
The plate should not be touching the the top of mold when casting ... should swing freely while holding the handles and flipping the mold with your wrist.
To insure a perfect fill with a sharp flat base - when cutting the sprue just add little downward pressure
« Last Edit: Jun 7th, 2019 at 3:28pm by John Boy »  

Regards
John
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