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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) Help identifying this Marlin-Ballard (Read 3087 times)
kensmachine
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Re: Help identifying this Marlin-Ballard
Reply #30 - Nov 20th, 2020 at 12:02pm
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4227 is a good powder for the 32-40 both my 2 32-40 like the 4227 better than the 4759. Ken
  
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uscra112
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Re: Help identifying this Marlin-Ballard
Reply #31 - Nov 20th, 2020 at 1:28pm
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marlinguy wrote on Nov 20th, 2020 at 10:37am:
The breech block will never come out if you hold the extractor in place. Need to remove the lever screw after opening the lever. Then with the block about halfway down you can slip the extractor out past the block, and the block will drop out. Repeat the halfway in process to reassemble the block and extractor.


Took me about a week to figure that out when I had my first Ballard!   Grin
  

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jbinnh
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Re: Help identifying this Marlin-Ballard
Reply #32 - Nov 20th, 2020 at 1:36pm
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I followed Marlinguys instruction and it came out pretty well but have to admit it didn't go in quite so easily. Got it now though!
Looks like I have a real parts gun as the block numbers don't match the serial number, but on the bright side, they match each other. Don't know how the 38/50 on the extractor fits in.
  
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uscra112
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Re: Help identifying this Marlin-Ballard
Reply #33 - Nov 20th, 2020 at 1:41pm
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If it were a British motorcycle, we'd call it a "bitza".  Bits o' this and bits o' that. 

Since it's not a perfectly-factory-original specimen, all the more reason to wring it out at the range!
  

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jbinnh
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Re: Help identifying this Marlin-Ballard
Reply #34 - Nov 20th, 2020 at 1:42pm
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I think it was determined that the gallery sight was not original but I do have a question about it. The two pictures should show the difference from where the staff is in its detent and where is should be to approx perpendicular to the barrel. Is there anything I can do to correct what seems to be a possible issue?
John
  
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rkba2nd
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Re: Help identifying this Marlin-Ballard
Reply #35 - Nov 20th, 2020 at 2:22pm
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It is an original Ballard sight, just earlier than the rifle. Not a concern. Neither is it a concern that the sight staff is not perfectly perpendicular to the barrel. If it bothers you from an aesthetic standpoint, you could have the detent welded up and recut. I have never tried it, but would think you could use something like JB epoxy to fill and recut the detent. If you didn't use it constantly I would think it might hold up well. You should be able to find the later version in the 2-3 hundred dollar range, depending on condition. If it were me I would use it as is. Enjoy that rifle.
  

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marlinguy
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Re: Help identifying this Marlin-Ballard
Reply #36 - Nov 21st, 2020 at 11:40am
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The .38-50 on the extractor is the caliber of the gun that extractor came from. Since the rim size is close to a .30-40 Krag, it's likely use made it close enough for your rifle.

As Krag said, your sight is indeed a Ballard graduated peep in Gallery height staff. It's original to a Ballard, just not what I'd expect to see on a fine schuetzen rifle. The elevation adjustment is not conducive to accurate settings, so usually used for a hunting rifle, not a target rifle. But once it's set to hit center, it will be as accurate as a higher grade tang sight. It's just making precise adjustments that become an issue.
It's far more common for these custom schuetzen rifles to have mixed parts, as the guns used to build them were often of lesser value, so an accumulation of parts from those type guns could end in a nice complete custom rifle.
If this was a factory schuetzen model, or any original model, the mixture of parts would hurt it's value. But it's so common to find this scenario in custom guns that it doesn't really affect their value. The important part is it's a forged receiver, well fitted, and accurate. If all that holds true, then mismatched parts wont put anyone off.
  

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jbinnh
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Re: Help identifying this Marlin-Ballard
Reply #37 - Nov 21st, 2020 at 2:36pm
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What great information I received, thank you. Now the loading journey begins. I have some odd cast bullets that came along with the gun but have not as yet figured out the breech seating method. I took a cerrosafe chamber cast several years ago but didn't get much farther than that so now I will see if the breech seaters are matched to the gun. I guess just drop the bullet into the chamber then push it in all the way with the seater. Load a precharged case then shoot.
I understand there should be a little space between the case mouth and base of bullet so figuring that out will be my next assignment.
John
  
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marlinguy
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Re: Help identifying this Marlin-Ballard
Reply #38 - Nov 21st, 2020 at 10:04pm
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I've only been breech seating bullets for a few years, so not an expert. I normally start 1/16" ahead of the chamber, or case mouth.
Powder charges usually need to be increased over fixed cartridges due to the extra case capacity that you get seating the bullet this far out. But I started with fixed data and gradually increased it until I got the results I wanted.
You can breech seat with a inexpensive push seater like the old Ideal styles, or buy a mechanical seater that gives you a leverage advantage, and makes seating much easier, and more accurate too. Ballard rifles create some issues as far as which seaters work well, and often back in the late 1800's gunsmiths attached a pin to the side of the receivers to hook a breech seater to, and that's not something I care to add.
I've got 4 different styles of tools I use, and some work excellent, while a couple work OK, but get tiresome after a short time.
A stepped bullet, or tapered bullet, makes breech seating much easier, and they shoot really well also.

This is my Cleave breech seater:

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This one is either a Glen Goerzen, or Bud Barnes tool:

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This is one I make for myself:

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This is an Ideal push seater at the bottom in this pic:

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jbinnh
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Re: Help identifying this Marlin-Ballard
Reply #39 - Nov 22nd, 2020 at 9:11am
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Marlinguy, it looks like you have a #2 Ideal. Sold for $1.00 but don't have a date on the book. Probably worth a little more now.
I did notice the difference in where the knurled ring is located.
  
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Re: Help identifying this Marlin-Ballard
Reply #40 - Nov 22nd, 2020 at 9:17am
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I just looked on ebay and saw this book, dated 1906, for sale at $15.95 with several available. It really is a fun book to read thru. I have no connection with the seller.
  
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marlinguy
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Re: Help identifying this Marlin-Ballard
Reply #41 - Nov 22nd, 2020 at 9:51am
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The Ideal #2 has far more adjustment than the #1, but both work equally well; but not as well as any mechanical seater with leverage.
  

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MrTipUp
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Re: Help identifying this Marlin-Ballard
Reply #42 - Nov 22nd, 2020 at 11:02am
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You can, of course, put the No. 2's knurled stop nut at either end of the housing.

Bill Lawrence
  
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uscra112
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Re: Help identifying this Marlin-Ballard
Reply #43 - Nov 22nd, 2020 at 11:05am
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Has high quality reproductions of dozens of the old Ideal catalogs. 
  

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marlinguy
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Re: Help identifying this Marlin-Ballard
Reply #44 - Nov 22nd, 2020 at 11:48am
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MrTipUp wrote on Nov 22nd, 2020 at 11:02am:
You can, of course, put the No. 2's knurled stop nut at either end of the housing.

Bill Lawrence


Yes, and the #1 doesn't have one at all.

  

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